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Junkyard Professional Review and Guide
"Junkyard was one of the first areas developed in The New, and it continues to be an extremely popular area to this date. It’s not hard to understand why: The approach is short; there are a number of good, moderate face and crack climbs; and unlike most crags at The New, topropes are easy to rig. Bring a modest rack of stoppers and camming units if you plan to lead climb, since most of the routes require traditional gear. There is also a popular bouldering area located in a “cave” near the descent ladder. Described below are eleven of the one hundred-plus routes available for your climbing pleasure."
--Eric J. Horst and Stewart M. Green, Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland (Falcon Guides).
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