Black Peak: South Ridge & Northeast Ridge Routes Professional Review and Guide
"Black Peak is a high, accessible mountain that seems overlooked when measured against the vigorous climbing and alpine environment it offers to climbers of all abilities. At nearly 9,000 feet, the distinctive black pyramid of Black Peak displays an imposing façade from the North Cascades Highway above Rainy Pass, its distinctive horizontal snow patch unmistakable even from a distance. With an outstanding alpine setting that affords exceptional views, and variable and often aesthetic climbing, Black Peak is a mountain that climbers will want to visit more than once.
This peak was destined to be popular. Once familiar with the approach and the routes, climbers will find Black Peak offers long, interesting, and strenuous routes with an exceptionally lengthy season. While it’s not generally thought of in terms of a recreational conditioning climb—such as Granite or Dickerman—its accessibility and lack of technical challenges mean it can be an enjoyable and realistic day-climbing alternative for fit parties who know the way. Those same factors also open up the potential for off-season climbs here."