Third Recess Peak Northeast Buttress

Tom's Place, California

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This remote wall is another one of those routes that climbers looked at for years but always assumed someone else had climbed. It is easily visible from campsites in Pioneer and Hopkins basins. Ever on the alert for an unclimbed line, local climber Mike Strassman was attracted to the arete by a photo taken by John Moynier from the summit of nearby Mt. Mills. In June of 1994, Strassman and Lara Wilkinson made the long hike in to attempt the climb. The base of the buttress featured a steep dihedral. As they reached the crest of the buttress, the climbers were delighted to find that the rock featured excellent cracks and large knobs. They gained height quickly and soon were at a large platform they titled “Lunch Ledge.” Above this, a steep crack led up the right side of a tower. Beyond this, the difficulties eased and the remaining pitches consisted of moderate climbing. Upon reaching the summit, they found no evidence of any previous ascents.

Third Recess Peak: Northeast Buttress Professional Review and Guide

"This remote wall is another one of those routes that climbers looked at for years but always assumed someone else had climbed. It is easily visible from campsites in Pioneer and Hopkins basins. Ever on the alert for an unclimbed line, local climber Mike Strassman was attracted to the arete by a photo taken by John Moynier from the summit of nearby Mt. Mills. In June of 1994, Strassman and Lara Wilkinson made the long hike in to attempt the climb. The base of the buttress featured a steep dihedral. As they reached the crest of the buttress, the climbers were delighted to find that the rock featured excellent cracks and large knobs. They gained height quickly and soon were at a large platform they titled “Lunch Ledge.” Above this, a steep crack led up the right side of a tower. Beyond this, the difficulties eased and the remaining pitches consisted of moderate climbing. Upon reaching the summit, they found no evidence of any previous ascents."

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Tom's Place
Class: Class 5 - 5.5
Local Contacts: John Muir Wilderness
Local Maps: USGS Mt. Abbot
Grade: Grade IV
Driving Directions: Directions to Third Recess Peak: Northeast Buttress

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May 2018