"This route serves up an intriguing mix of grand views, challenging terrain, and abandoned military installations. I spend a lot of time alone on the trail, which gives me ample opportunity to muse. Most of the time I think about the beauty of the scenery around me, or about family and friends, or I just daydream. But I happened to hike this trail just after the terrorist attacks of September 11. And instead of using trail intersections or viewpoints as landmarks, I gauged my progress, mile by mile, with the derelict remnants of America’s wars. And when I stood amid the weather-beaten military installations atop Hill 88, their hospital-green paint peeling away and stained with rust, I had a hard time focusing on the spectacular views, or the raptors surfing the wind currents rising from the surrounding valleys. Instead, I was struck by how much humans have invested in the tools of warfare, and how quickly those investments—from hand axes to cannon to nuclear bombs and chemical and biological weapons— become obsolete. The ruins of war efforts dating back centuries are scattered throughout the GGNRA, stacked atop each other, rusty, clunky reminders of the white elephant humankind has nurtured for thousands of years. I know that this is a guidebook, not a soapbox, but I challenge everyone exploring the trails of the headlands, regardless of their political or philosophical bent, to honestly consider the military legacy built so sturdily into these hills."