North Peak North Couloir

Lee Vining, California

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The vertical north wall of North Peak is cut by three prominent ice couloirs. Each of these gullies offers excellent alpine ice climbing by midsummer and can be easily climbed in a day from Saddlebag Lake. The right-hand of the three is the easiest and most dependable in late season. It is rare for such fine ice climbs to be so accessible, which helps explain their popularity. These gullies also present excellent extreme ski descents in the late spring. In spite of their easy access, these gullies are serious outings, as evidenced by the number of accidents that have occurred.

North Peak: North Couloir Professional Review and Guide

"The vertical north wall of North Peak is cut by three prominent ice couloirs. Each of these gullies offers excellent alpine ice climbing by midsummer and can be easily climbed in a day from Saddlebag Lake. The right-hand of the three is the easiest and most dependable in late season. It is rare for such fine ice climbs to be so accessible, which helps explain their popularity. These gullies also present excellent extreme ski descents in the late spring. In spite of their easy access, these gullies are serious outings, as evidenced by the number of accidents that have occurred."

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Lee Vining
Class: Class 5.9 and above
Local Contacts: Yosemite National Park; Inyo National Forest, John Muir Wilderness
Local Maps: USGS Tioga Pass
Driving Directions: Directions to North Peak: North Couloir

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May 2018