Matthies Crest Traverse from North

Lee Vining, California

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The Matthes Crest is a dramatic fin of rock with two summits separated by a deep notch. It is named for Francois Matthes, author of The Incomparable Valley, an excellent introduction to the geology and geomorphology of the Sierra, particularly that of Yosemite Valley. He coined the term “Cockscomb” and named the nearby peak as a definitive example. When told that this peak had been named after him (by Reid Moran, a Yosemite National Park Ranger), Matthes was reported to be greatly pleased and said, “he knew of no other unnamed feature in the Sierra which he would rather have chosen.” Many of the climbers who helped with this book cited this as their favorite Sierra climb. It offers enjoyable climbing on excellent rock, tremendous exposure, and a thrilling summit. Chuck and Ellen Wilts made the south to north traverse in 1947, two years after Chuck’s ascent of the nearby southeast face of Cathedral Peak. Climbing the southern part of the knife-edged ridge adds many enjoyable pitches to the route.
Climbing California's High Sierra

DESCRIPTION FROM:

Climbing California's High Sierra

by John Moynier & Claude Fiddler (Falcon Guides)

The Matthes Crest is a dramatic fin of rock with two summits separated by a deep notch. It is named for Francois Matthes, author of The Incomparable Valley, an excellent introduction to the geology and geomorphology of the Sierra, particularly that of Yosemite Valley. He coined the term “Cockscomb” and named the nearby peak as a definitive example. When told that this peak had been named after him (by Reid Moran, a Yosemite National Park Ranger), Matthes was reported to be greatly pleased and said, “he knew of no other unnamed feature in the Sierra which he would rather have chosen.” Many of the climbers who helped with this book cited this as their favorite Sierra climb. It offers enjoyable climbing on excellent rock, tremendous exposure, and a thrilling summit. Chuck and Ellen Wilts made the south to north traverse in 1947, two years after Chuck’s ascent of the nearby southeast face of Cathedral Peak. Climbing the southern part of the knife-edged ridge adds many enjoyable pitches to the route.

©  John Moynier & Claude Fiddler/Falcon Guides. All Rights Reserved.

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Lee Vining
Class: Class 5.6 - 5.8
Local Contacts: Yosemite National Park
Local Maps: USGS Tenaya Lake
Grade: Grade II
Driving Directions: Directions to Matthies Crest: Traverse from North

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May 2018