Dragtooth North Buttress

Bridgeport, California

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When viewing Matterhorn Peak from the trailhead at Twin Lakes, the nearby Dragtooth vies for the climber’s attention. Walter Brem, Glen Dawson, and Jules Eichorn made the first ascent of the Dragtooth in 1931 after a traverse from Matterhorn Peak. This climb came on their way to the historic Underhill Camp, where they would learn proper belay techniques. The following week, they moved to Tuolumne Meadows and made a number of first ascents, including Eichorn Pinnacle, the Cockscomb, and the Matthes Crest. At the end of the narrow summit ridge lies a beautiful buttress. C. Southard and Hervey Voge first climbed the steep wall on the left side of the north buttress in the summer of 1941. Although the wall is quite intimidating, the main challenge is finding the easiest route.

Dragtooth: North Buttress Professional Review and Guide

"When viewing Matterhorn Peak from the trailhead at Twin Lakes, the nearby Dragtooth vies for the climber’s attention. Walter Brem, Glen Dawson, and Jules Eichorn made the first ascent of the Dragtooth in 1931 after a traverse from Matterhorn Peak. This climb came on their way to the historic Underhill Camp, where they would learn proper belay techniques. The following week, they moved to Tuolumne Meadows and made a number of first ascents, including Eichorn Pinnacle, the Cockscomb, and the Matthes Crest. At the end of the narrow summit ridge lies a beautiful buttress. C. Southard and Hervey Voge first climbed the steep wall on the left side of the north buttress in the summer of 1941. Although the wall is quite intimidating, the main challenge is finding the easiest route."

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Bridgeport
Class: Class 5.9 and above
Local Contacts: Yosemite National Park; Inyo National Forest, John Muir Wilderness
Local Maps: USGS Matterhorn Peak, Buckeye Ridge
Grade: Grade III
Driving Directions: Directions to Dragtooth: North Buttress

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May 2018