Mount Humphreys Northeast Couloir

Bishop, California

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Mt. Humphreys is one of the most prominent peaks in the Sierra and is one of the more difficult summits to attain because there is no easy way to the top. Standing just 14 feet shy of 14,000 feet, it is deserving of the respect and the attention it receives. The most impressive view of the peak is from the glacier below the north face. However, most ascents are via the Class 4 route up the southwest gully and northwest face. Galen Rowell and Joe Faint first climbed the slabby north face in May of 1970. Their route began in the prominent northeast couloir and involved climbing mixed snow and rock.

Mount Humphreys: Northeast Couloir Professional Review and Guide

"Mt. Humphreys is one of the most prominent peaks in the Sierra and is one of the more difficult summits to attain because there is no easy way to the top. Standing just 14 feet shy of 14,000 feet, it is deserving of the respect and the attention it receives. The most impressive view of the peak is from the glacier below the north face. However, most ascents are via the Class 4 route up the southwest gully and northwest face. Galen Rowell and Joe Faint first climbed the slabby north face in May of 1970. Their route began in the prominent northeast couloir and involved climbing mixed snow and rock."

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Bishop
Class: Class 5 - 5.5
Local Contacts: John Muir Wilderness
Local Maps: USGS Mt. Tom
Driving Directions: Directions to Mount Humphreys: Northeast Couloir

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May 2018