Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks  by Bob Gaines

Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks Guide Book

by Bob Gaines (Falcon Guides)
Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks  by Bob Gaines
Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide showcases the best routes at these spectacular climbing areas, ideal for climbers who want to hit as many select climbs as possible in a short visit. Longtime local climbing guide Bob Gaines leads you to hundreds of the very best routes available—with an emphasis on moderate climbs but featuring some classic testpieces too. GPS coordinates for the formations, sun and shade recommendations, and gear requirements for each climb are included. This guide provides visually appealing, to-the-point information for climbers who want to experience the best climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks to offer.

© Bob Gaines /Falcon Guides. All Rights Reserved.

Trails from the "Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks" Guide Book
Displaying trails 20 of 23.

Displaying trails 1 to 20 of 23.

The Buttress of Cracks is the lowest cliff band on Suicide Rock, and is the first section of rock you encounter on the approach trail, near the cliff’s far right side. From where the approach trail me ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
This multifaceted formation is located to the right of and about 100 feet uphill from the base of Sideshow Slab. All the routes have rappel descents from bolts anchors. This area is in the sun until a ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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The Godzilla Face is an unusual formation consisting of a slab capped with two monolithic blocks that form overhanging lips. Godzilla’s Return and Motezuma’s Revenge involve a combination of slab clim ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
Located about 75 yards to the right of the Weeping Wall, this face hosts one of Suicide Rock’s classic arête climbs, Hair Lip (5.10a PG), not to be missed if you’re solid at the grade.
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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This prominent 1,000-foot-high buttress separates the Northwest Recess and the West Face Bulge. The long, moderate classic White Maiden’s Walkway starts on the left side of the Maiden Buttress and asc ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
The North Face of Suicide Rock is located at the extreme right end of the crag, where the cliff diminishes in size before ending a few hundred feet to the right. The routes generally follow exfoliatin ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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The sheer cliffs of the Northeast Buttress possess some of the very best crack climbs on Suicide Rock, and probably the most famous one: Flower of High Rank (5.9), not to be missed if you’re climbing ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
The Northwest Recess is the sector of Tahquitz Rock bordered by the North Buttress on the left and the Maiden Buttress on the right. This section of the cliff is noticeably steeper than the Northeast ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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Paisano Pinnacle is an amazing 50-foot-high block perched on Paisano Ledge atop the Sunshine Face. Part of its base juts out over the Sunshine Face, forming a roof. The Paisano Overhang climbs the cra ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
Immediately to the right of the Weeping Wall is a massive, smooth, highangle slab. Included here are routes up the main slab and routes just to the right (Delila and Season’s End). Just to the right o ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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This mini version of the Weeping Wall is located just right of Hot Buttered Rump, about 100 yards right of the Weeping Wall. The climbs entail thinhold slab and friction climbing on water-polished roc ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
The Smooth Sole Walls are located several hundred feet to the left of and below the Sunshine Face, and consist of two separate, 100-foot-tall, highangle slabs split by a deep chimney (Chatsworth Chimn ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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The South Face comprises the entire section of Tahquitz to the right of The Edge, which is on the prominent southwest arête forming the definitive border between the West Face and South Face of Tahqui ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
The South Face of Suicide Rock features panes of smooth, perfect granite with sheets of polished gold rock, quartz dikes, and a myriad of incut edges. Some of the very best face climbing that Suicide ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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This beautiful white slab is located just right of Godzilla Face, and is most easily approached from The Escalator or from the top of the rock. The climbing is characterized by runout slab climbing on ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
This magnificent cliff is the largest face at Suicide Rock, home of the ultra-classic Sundance (5.10b) and the legendary Valhalla (5.11b). The rock quality is impeccable, and the face climbs can only ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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Tahquitz Rock is a huge dome-like formation, with its highest cliffs facing northeast, north, northwest, west, and south. To the east, the cliffs of Tahquitz diminish, merging into the surrounding mou ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
When you look up from Humber Park, the Northeast Face of Tahquitz can be seen as the far left side of the rock. This face is characterized by long, less than vertical dihedrals and cracks that extend ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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This area of steep cliffs sits in a rock amphitheater up and left (east) of the North Gully. The main cliff, called the Hinterland Wall, has an assortment of good crack climbs, in addition to some fun ...
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
The Shadow Face is located about 50 feet right of The Escalator. From the Weeping Wall, head up and right for about 200 feet along the climber’s trail, which leads directly to the base of the climb.
Idyllwild, CA - Climbing
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