Best Climbs Moab  by Stewart M. Green

Best Climbs Moab Guide Book

by Stewart M. Green (Falcon Guides)
Best Climbs Moab  by Stewart M. Green
Best Climbs Moab showcases the best climbs in the Moab area, ideal for climbers who want to hit as many select routes as possible in a weekend or short visit. Longtime desert climber Stewart Green leads you to the very best routes found in the desert surrounding Moab—from multi-pitch traditional-style gear routes on beautiful sandstone towers to stellar, moderate sport climbs at Wall Street. This guide provides visually appealing, to-the-point information for climbers who want to experience the world-class climbing near Moab.

© 2011 Stewart M Green/Falcon Guides. All Rights Reserved.

Trails from the "Best Climbs Moab" Guide Book
Displaying trails 10 of 10.

Displaying trails 1 to 10 of 10.

Arches National Park, a 73,234-acre wonderland of sandstone fins, towers, ribs, gargoyles, hoodoos, balanced rocks, and arches northwest of Moab, protects the largest collection of arches in the world. Over 2, 000 arches with at least one side 3 or more feet wide have been cataloged by explorers, including 306-foot-long Landscape Arch and Delicate Arch, Utah’s state symbol.
La Sal, UT - Climbing
The Island in the Sky dominates the northern part of 337,570-acre Canyonlands National Park. The Island, a 6,000-foot-high mesa lined with Wingate sandstone cliffs, rises above the Colorado River on the east and the Green River on the west. Deep canyons, isolated buttes, and tall towers cut into the Island’s cliffs. This sector of Canyonlands offers climbers some of the area’s best tower adventures, with spectacular routes ascending soaring faces.
Soda Springs Basin, UT - Climbing
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The Colorado River, entrenched in a deep sandstone canyon, and broad Castle Valley draining north from the La Sal Mountains, lie east of Moab. A ragged line of towering buttes and towers borders the eastern edge of Castle Valley, forming the canyon country’s most spectacular collection of towers.
Salt Valley, UT - Climbing
The Fisher Towers, one of the canyon country’s most bizarre landscapes, is a red maze of towering pinnacles, fins, minarets, gargoyles, and strangely shaped rock formations east of Moab. The soaring towers, draped with mud curtains, are composed of Cutler sandstone, a coarse conglomerate that is usually more solid than it looks.
Mount Peale, UT - Climbing
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The Ice Cream Parlor is a fine southwest-facing cliff that towers above the east side of the road just before the canyon opens into broad Kane Valley. All of the routes except Wolverine ascend a lower tier of varnished Wingate sandstone below the steep, fractured upper face. The right side offers some great crack climbs while the popular left slab has lots of good bolted sport routes and three fun cracks. The one-pitch climbs have bolt anchors for convenient lowers. The cliff is ideal during warmer months since it stays shady in the morning, while cooler months it soaks up lots of sun. It’s usually too hot in summer for comfort. The Ice Cream Parlor is popular, especially on weekends. Come early or climb late.
Moab, UT - Climbing
Lighthouse Tower is a 315-foot-high tower perched on a ridge above River Road, northeast of Moab. The Lighthouse, one of the best tower climbs near Moab, is a bizarrely shaped, blocky tower topped by a weird ball summit that requires unprotected climbing or trickery to stand on its top. The tiny summit holds only one person at a time. Next to the Lighthouse are slender Dolomite Spire and Big Bend Butte. The described route, Lonely Vigil, is in of the best climbs on the tower. It ascends the side opposite the highway.
Mount Peale, UT - Climbing
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Looking Glass Rock, an Entrada sandstone dome lying a couple miles west of US 191 south of Moab, offers a fun three-pitch route up an exposed fin to a domed summit. The highlight, however, is a spectacular 185-foot free rappel that drops out of an exposed keyhole window. The easy route, first done by local cowboys years ago, is mostly easy friction climbing protected by a few bolts. The summit views are marvelous, with the snowcapped La Sal Mountains looming to the northeast and the Henry and Abajo Mountains to the west and southwest.
La Sal, UT - Climbing
Maverick Buttress, an east-and south-facing Wingate sandstone cliff, perches near the head of 4-mile-long Long Canyon, a broad cliff-lined canyon that drops east from the Island in the Sky to the Colorado River. The cliff offers not only the finest assortment of crack climbs near Moab but also the best scenic vista of any area crag, with distant views of Behind the Rocks and the L Sal Mountains. Most of the climbs were established by Jack Roberts and Charlie Fowler in 1987.
La Sal, UT - Climbing
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Sunshine Wall is a southwest-facing Wingate sandstone cliff in the northern end of Salt Valley and a few miles north of Arches National Park. The long-cliff, easily accessed from US 191 and I-70, offers lots of good bolted slab routes in a beautiful desert setting. It’s a particularly good climbing venue during the cooler months since it receives lots of sunshine. Access, however, is troublesome after rain and snow because of the dirt roads to the cliff can become impassable with mud. The wall is on BLM public land and has no current restrictions. Free camping is found below the base of the wall. Bring water and camp at existing sites. Most of the routes are over 100 feet long. Use a 70-meter rope or two ropes to rappel from anchors.
Moab, UT - Climbing
Wall Street, the most popular climbing area near Moab, is a towering 500-foot-high cliff that looms above the Colorado River and UT 279. The highway, called the Potash Road, is sandwiched between the cliffs and the river. The cliff, composed of Navajo sandstone, is easily accessed from numerous pullouts below the routes. Access time from car to cliff is usually less than a minute, making Wall Street the ultimate roadside crag.
La Sal, UT - Climbing
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