Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress Route

Sardis, British Columbia

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Slesse Mountain is located in the rugged Chilliwack region a few miles north of the U.S.–Canadian border. This long, intimidating route is in a rugged area that challenges the climber’s skills and psychological state but rewards him or her with spectacularly exposed summit pitches on steep rock. This route on Slesse Mountain is truly a classic, one of the most challenging in the range. Upon first view, the Northeast Buttress is a sobering sight. No photograph can convey the feeling one gets standing at the bottom of this tremendous route, long considered one of the most serious of the big alpine climbs in the Cascades. The middle third of the route also presents options: the buttress crest appeals to those with solid rock climbing skills, while the north side bypass (5.7) appeals to those who wish an easier route and do not mind a fair amount of dirt and vegetation. The magnificent final pitches—the real reason for doing the climb—follow the buttress crest with sustained mid-5th-class climbing on solid rock, steep and exposed. Equipment: Medium rack to 3 inches, chocks, 2 ropes.

Slesse Mountain: Northeast Buttress Route Professional Review and Guide

"Slesse Mountain is located in the rugged Chilliwack region a few miles north of the U.S.–Canadian border. This long, intimidating route is in a rugged area that challenges the climber’s skills and psychological state but rewards him or her with spectacularly exposed summit pitches on steep rock. This route on Slesse Mountain is truly a classic, one of the most challenging in the range. Upon first view, the Northeast Buttress is a sobering sight. No photograph can convey the feeling one gets standing at the bottom of this tremendous route, long considered one of the most serious of the big alpine climbs in the Cascades.

The middle third of the route also presents options: the buttress crest appeals to those with solid rock climbing skills, while the north side bypass (5.7) appeals to those who wish an easier route and do not mind a fair amount of dirt and vegetation. The magnificent final pitches—the real reason for doing the climb—follow the buttress crest with sustained mid-5th-class climbing on solid rock, steep and exposed. Equipment: Medium rack to 3 inches, chocks, 2 ropes."

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Sardis
Duration: 1 - 3 days round trip
Class: Class 5.9 and above
Season: June - September
Trailhead Elevation: 4,000 feet
Top Elevation: 7,850 feet
Grade: Grade V
Driving Directions: Directions to Slesse Mountain: Northeast Buttress Route

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May 2018