Mount Olympus: Blue Glacier

Mount Olympus is literally the crown jewel of the Olympic Mountains. It not only is the highest and most heavily glaciated peak of the Olympics, but it lies near the geographic center of the range. Olympus, named for the fabled home of the gods of Greek mythology, is one of the most remote of the Olympic Mountains. Although Olympus rises to within a stone’s throw of 8,000 feet elevation, it is so thoroughly enfolded within the range that it is practically invisible except from the highest surrounding ridges and summits. The approach hike is 18 miles long, one of the longest approaches of any peak in Washington. Despite the tedium of hiking so far carrying a heavy load of climbing and backpacking gear and supplies for the usual three-day ascent, the approach rarely deters climbers from the task. Hundreds of climbers annually brave blisters, cramps, and shoulder-strap bruises to trudge up the trail to base camp at Glacier Meadows, then summon the will to arise early the next morning, stiff joints, sore muscles and all, and continue another 3,700 vertical feet to the summit. As testament to its popularity, Mount Olympus accounts for an estimated 90 percent of guided climbs in the entire range of the Olympic Mountains. The first ascent of Mount Olympus was made by a party of eleven climbers on August 13, 1907. After searching for evidence of an earlier claimed ascent and finding none, they concluded they had made the first ascent. “With a mighty cheer and then a song,” they set about building a cairn, placing a summit register, and taking photos. Modern climbers usually dispense with the mighty cheer and song, and the summit cairn is well established, but taking photos is still a highly popular summit activity. In clear weather, the view from the summit will likely surpass your expectations. Like the first ascent in 1907, it is not uncommon to find a dozen or more climbers on the summit together on sunny summer weekends. Perhaps Olympus epitomizes the alpine climbing ideal more than many of the peaks in this guide that can easily be climbed and descended in a single day. It is not an ascent to be rushed, but savored, and not a peak to be “bagged,” but experienced. It is a mountain with more intrinsic challenges and more lasting rewards. Unlike many other sought-after peaks, Mount Olympus cannot simply be pointed to from the lowlands while you brag “I climbed it.” If climbers brag after an ascent of Mount Olympus, it is usually something like “I never have to hike the Hoh River Trail again!” The recommended climbing season is from late June through early September most years, although good conditions often exist from the middle of spring into fall. Winter ascents are rare due to the long approach and avalanche hazard.