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Mount Rainier: Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route

Ashford Washington Climbs

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Mount Rainier: Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route - Ashford Washington Climbs

Mount Rainier is by far the most coveted summit in the Cascade Range. At 14,410 feet, just 84 feet lower than highest-in-the-Lower-48 Mount Whitney, this glacier-clad volcano towers above Seattle and much of the Northwest countryside. With the largest system of glaciers in the United States (outside Alaska), the giant hulk of a mountain carries 35 square miles of ice. Mount Rainier’s familiar shape and looming presence are a virtual symbol of the Cascades and the Northwest. This far-reaching visibility makes it a prime destination for novices and expert mountaineers alike. Mount Rainier is a tremendous resource for climbers, offering great mountaineering experiences of many different kinds. Undoubtedly the most popular route on Mount Rainier, this one starts from the main visitors area at Paradise and is the principal route used by the concessioned guide service, Rainier Mountaineering Inc. The route is characterized by the moderate Muir Snowfield to the 10,000-foot level (known as Camp Muir), where there is a guide hut, a ranger station, a public shelter, and outhouse facilities. From Camp Muir, the summit-day route crosses the Cowlitz and Ingraham Glaciers and then ascends the cleaver dividing the Emmons and Ingraham Glaciers. Equipment: Ice ax, crampons, snow anchor, wands.

© Copyright Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume I
Published by The Mountaineers Books. All Rights Reserved.

Trail Statistics & Information

Activity Type: Climbing
Nearby City: Ashford
Elevation Gain: Minimal
Trail Type: Unspecified
Skill Level: Grade III; 30- to 35-degree snow and ice, glacier travel, altitude
Duration: 2 - 4 days round trip; 6 - 10 hours one-way from Camp Muir
Season: May - August
Trailhead Elevation: 5,420 feet
Top Elevation: 14,410 feet
Local Contacts: Mount Rainier National Park
Topo Map: Mount Rainier: Disappointment Cleaver / Ingraham Glacier Route Topographic Map
Guide Book: Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume I Guide Book
Driving Directions: View Guide
Trail Directions: View Guide
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Weather Conditions

  1. Important Message
    Winter weather advisory in effect tonight. Winter storm watch from Saturday evening through Sunday morning.

  2. Tonight
    Snow showers. Snow level 2000 feet. Snow accumulation of 5 to 10 inches...except locally near a foot in the convergence zone north of Stevens pass. West wind in the passes 10 to 20 mph.

  3. Saturday
    Snow or rain at times. Snow level 1500 feet. Snow accumulation of 2 to 4 inches. Afternoon pass temperatures in the lower 30s. West wind in the passes 5 to 15 mph in the morning becoming easterly after noon.

  4. Saturday Night
    Snow or rain. Snow level 2000 to 3000 feet. Heavy snowfall accumulations of 8 to 12 inches possible. West wind in the passes 10 mph.

About This Trail Guide

Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume I
Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume I

by Jim Nelson & Peter Potterfield (The Mountaineers Books)

For ambitious newbies and hardcore climbers alike, this revised guide includes 12 new climbs. Inside…

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