Bolinas Lagoon & Duxbury Reef

A bird-watcher’s dream, this shallow, salt marsh lagoon at the wild southern edge of Point Reyes National Seashore is simple to paddle at high tide, when much of its 2-mile length is accessible. At low tide, however, the extensive mudflats that hungry migratory birds find so enticing limit boating to narrow channels. Besides mud, a potential sticking point to paddling here may be its proximity to the backwater bohemian burg of Bolinas. Although most Bolinians are outwardly friendly, they prefer life off the beaten path, and undercurrents of reclusiveness persist—evidenced by the fact that no sign on Highway 1 marks the turnoff to their quiet village because locals tear it down. The desire for solitude (captured in a tongue-in-cheek bumper sticker we saw there recently which read, “Why do they call it ‘tourist season’ if you’re not allowed to shoot them?”) seems to stem from respect for their surroundings, an honest yearning not to have their peaceful and picturesque spot overrun by uncaring outsiders. There are rumblings afoot to ban paddling in the lagoon because in the past some unwitting boaters have scared seals off haul outs and frightened migratory waterfowl off the water (see later). Therefore maintaining a low profile (we recommend launch sites along Highway 1 to ease parking pressures in town) and a respectful attitude toward wildlife may be essential to continued access for kayakers. Beyond the lagoon the sandbar off its mouth is a popular place to practice kayak surfing in the often gentle waves, and the protection of Duxbury reef, the largest shale reef in North America, makes it a good spot for introductory coastal touring on calm days.