Black Diamond Climbing Harness Review

Field Use

The Black Diamond Primrose's adjustable leg loops make it easy to get on and off, whether climbing at the gym, at the crag, or even ice climbing. Most of the time you'll just slip the harness on and off without unbuckling the leg loops, but when it comes time to get the harness on--or off--over crampons or bulky layers, the adjustable leg loops are a must. The moderate amount of padding strikes a nice balance between comfort and weight. Taking regular lead falls on the Black Diamond Primrose is surprisingly comfortable, and the shaped leg loops and waist loop help put extra support and padding where it's needed most--the back of the thighs and the lower back--without adding unnecessary bulk in other places. The full-strength rear haul loop further improves this harness's multitasking ability, making it easy to trail a full rope or a tag line, and offering a safe possibility for light belayers who belay heavy climbers: Using the haul loop to anchor into a tree or large boulders helps keep the belayer from being jerked into the air while at the same time preserving as much freedom of movement as possible. The injection-molded plastic gear loops look too frail at first glance but prove to be sturdy and adequate for a long sport climb. This harness serves decently for trad climbing if supplemented by a gear sling.

Pros and Cons

The most positive aspects of the Black Diamond Primrose climbing harness are its versatility and its comfort. While it may not perform any particular types of climbing to an extraordinary level, it performs adequately in almost any climbing situation, and it's well-padded for comfort without being so bulky or heavy that it's an inconvenience. That same versatility is also the only real negative aspect to this harness: The all-purpose design that lets it perform decently in almost any climbing situation keeps it from excelling at any of them. It'll never be confused for a trad harness--not enough gear loops, and those it does have aren't large enough--while it's too heavy to serve as a high-performance sport harness where fractions of an ounce may make the difference between sending a route or not.

Bottom Line

The Black Diamond Primrose climbing harness is an excellent buy for beginners just starting to experiment with different climbing styles and for more advanced climbers who may be on too much of a budget--or too practical--to purchase multiple harnesses for different climbing occasions. It would also be an excellent rental harness for climbing gyms and guide services, offering a high-end experience and great versatility at relatively low price. Avid climbers who are really pushing their limits, on the other hand, such as extreme alpinists and professional competition climbers, would be more satisfied with a specialized harness that suits their climbing style.