How to Buy a Used Scuba Tank

Buying a used scuba tank can allow new divers to acquire gear at reasonable prices, but buyers should exercise caution when considering used gear that provides their primary life support while underwater. A dialog with the seller and external checks of the tank provide valuable insight to determine whether the used tank will be a bargain. Buyers should calculate the true cost of the tank, which includes its price and the cost of required safety tests by a certified dive shop to determine the value of used equipment in comparison to a new tank.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Things You’ll Need:

Regulator setup
Regulator setup

Step 1

Ask the owner why he is selling his tank, which can give some insight about how often the tank was used and how it was stored. For example, the owner might no longer plan to dive locally and is seeking to clear his garage. This suggests that his gear might have been stored in a damp location for a period of time.

Step 2

Visually inspect the tank walls for cracks or dents that indicate possible damage.

Step 3

Determine the material composition of the tank: Is it aluminum or steel? Steel tanks are considered more durable for long-term use (with regular maintenance). The seller should disclose the type of tank.

Step 4

Check the visual inspection sticker to see if it is current: A current visual sticker usually indicates regular maintenance. Ask for the tank to be visually inspected before purchase or for a money-back guarantee if the tank fails visual testing.

Step 5

Locate the crown markings imprinted near the top of the tank to identify the last hydrostatic testing date, tank capacity and DOT/CTC stamp (the seller can point these out). Dive shops will fill and service tanks with a DOT/CTC stamp; other tanks might be designated for military use or come from overseas that aren't accepted by dive operators.

Step 6

Check that the marking for the aluminum alloy is not "6351," since this alloy is known by dive operators as faulty and prone to failure. "AL" in the crown marking denotes "aluminum."

Step 7

Check that the type of valve is compatible with your regulator's first-stage attachment. Most tanks use a K-valve so the regulator's first stage can slip on and lock in place. DIN valves require a special screwed first stage or an adapter to use with conventional setups.

Step 8

Attach your regulator setup to the tank and check for leaks and the air pressure level. Breathe from the regulator to see whether the compressed air has an unusual taste or odor. Leaks or low pressure can indicate a faulty valve that might allow moisture into the tank. An unusual odor or taste can indicate a faulty fill or internal corrosion.

Step 9

Calculate the actual cost for the used tank versus the cost for a new tank. Include the price of the used tank and add costs for visual and hydrostatic testing. Compare this total with the cost for a new tank of the same material and capacity.

Step 10

Bring the tank to your local dive shop for visual and hydrostatic testing to ensure it is in proper working condition, even if the most recent visual inspection was a few months ago. Your local dive shop will advise you regarding its finding and validate the safety of the tank.

Article Written By Regina Edwards

Regina Edwards has been a freelance writer since 1990. She has penned video scripts, instructional manuals, white papers and abstracts. She has also ghostwritten diabetes journals. Edwards is a scuba instructor and Usui and Karuna Reiki teacher. She holds a Bachelor of Science from Saint Joseph's University.

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