Skiing the Wapta Traverse

Elevation gain and loss while carrying a 40-pound pack requires basic physical conditioning, and the Wapta calls for at least intermediate alpine skiing skills in powder and crust conditions.

Backcountry alpine touring or telemark equipment (skis as wide as possible) is necessary with skins for climbing. Climbing equipment and ski crampons are suggested equipment, along with a large pack, mid-weight plastic boots, a warm sleeping bag, sunglasses and sunblock, water containers and the usual clothing and personal gear. Skis, poles, boots and other gear can be rented in Canmore or Calgary.

Most guide services meet in Canmore or Calgary. Buses and trains link the two cities, and shuttles are available to the Bow Lake area from both. Driving time from Canmore to Bow Lake or Bow Pass is about one and a half hours; it's closer to four hours from Calgary.

From Bow Pass, ski up the Peyto Glacier to Peyto Hut, at 8,134 feet. Although often bypassed, this step adds a day of fantastic scenery to the Wapta Traverse.

The Bow Hut, at 7,700 feet, beneath the hanging ice cliffs of Mounts St. Nicholas and Olive, can be reached by crossing the ice fields from Peyto Hut or heading across Bow Lake and up a canyon directly from the trailhead near Peyto Lake, climbing about 1,300 feet in about five hours. Bow Hut is relatively palatial, with separate sleeping facilities and cooking areas. Skiing is available on the glacier, and several summits can be reach either from Bow Hut or en route to Balfour Hut the following day.

The route to Balfour Hut, at 8,100 feet, makes a short climb on the Wapta Icefields over the spectacular Mt. Olive/St. Nicholas saddle (9,500 feet), with the option of climbing one of these peaks, followed by a long glide to the gorgeously situated, one-room Balfour Hut amid great views of the remainder of the traverse and further south to the distant Bugaboos. Without a climb, this stage should take about four and a half hours.

This day's first objective is a strenuous and exciting climb on crevassed slopes beneath Mt. Balfour's north face to 10,000 foot, view-wealthy Balfour High Col, where skiers can climb Mt. Balfour to 10,725 feet. From the col, cruise on gentles slopes over the Waputik Glacier to one-room, unheated Scott-Duncan Hut at 8,900 feet, Wapta's smallest hut. Without side trips, this leg takes about six hours.

The last day is a return to civilization at the Trans Canada Highway near Kicking Horse Pass, and features a significant downhill section and some flat skiing through trees by Sherbrooke Lake. Shuttle buses leave on regular schedules to Canmore.