Skiing the Wapta Traverse

Europe has the Haute Route and the Dolomites. North America weighs in with the Wapta Traverse, the gold standard for on-continent hut-to-hut backcountry skiing. The Wapta Icefields and glaciers, mostly in Banff National Park of the Canadian Rockies, are vast, but relatively uncomplicated and low in crevasse danger, with superb mountain scenery and huts well-maintained by the Canadian Alpine Club. Most of the Wapta is not difficult skiing, although steep skiing is available for layover days. The massive pack normally associated with backcountry snow camping is unnecessary, and the use of a guide can further shorten your equipment list. The Wapta, reaching a maximum elevation of 10,000 feet, is remote and uncrowded, roughly 22 miles of unspoiled mountain magic, and can typically be covered in four to seven days.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Getting Started

Things You’ll Need:

Alpine Ski Touring Equipment or Telemark Skis, Poles and Boots. Climbing Gear, Ski Crampons and/or Skins Large Backpack Warm Sleeping Bag Layered, Non-Cotton Clothing Rain Gear Sun Protection Water Containers
Alpine Ski Touring Equipment or Telemark Skis, Poles and Boots.
Climbing Gear, Ski Crampons and/or Skins
Large Backpack
Warm Sleeping Bag
Layered, Non-Cotton Clothing
Rain Gear
Sun Protection
Water Containers

Step 1

Elevation gain and loss while carrying a 40-pound pack requires basic physical conditioning, and the Wapta calls for at least intermediate alpine skiing skills in powder and crust conditions.

Step 2

Backcountry alpine touring or telemark equipment (skis as wide as possible) is necessary with skins for climbing. Climbing equipment and ski crampons are suggested equipment, along with a large pack, mid-weight plastic boots, a warm sleeping bag, sunglasses and sunblock, water containers and the usual clothing and personal gear. Skis, poles, boots and other gear can be rented in Canmore or Calgary.

Step 3

Most guide services meet in Canmore or Calgary. Buses and trains link the two cities, and shuttles are available to the Bow Lake area from both. Driving time from Canmore to Bow Lake or Bow Pass is about one and a half hours; it's closer to four hours from Calgary.

The Traverse

Step 1

From Bow Pass, ski up the Peyto Glacier to Peyto Hut, at 8,134 feet. Although often bypassed, this step adds a day of fantastic scenery to the Wapta Traverse.

Step 2

The Bow Hut, at 7,700 feet, beneath the hanging ice cliffs of Mounts St. Nicholas and Olive, can be reached by crossing the ice fields from Peyto Hut or heading across Bow Lake and up a canyon directly from the trailhead near Peyto Lake, climbing about 1,300 feet in about five hours. Bow Hut is relatively palatial, with separate sleeping facilities and cooking areas. Skiing is available on the glacier, and several summits can be reach either from Bow Hut or en route to Balfour Hut the following day.

Step 3

The route to Balfour Hut, at 8,100 feet, makes a short climb on the Wapta Icefields over the spectacular Mt. Olive/St. Nicholas saddle (9,500 feet), with the option of climbing one of these peaks, followed by a long glide to the gorgeously situated, one-room Balfour Hut amid great views of the remainder of the traverse and further south to the distant Bugaboos. Without a climb, this stage should take about four and a half hours.

Step 4

This day's first objective is a strenuous and exciting climb on crevassed slopes beneath Mt. Balfour's north face to 10,000 foot, view-wealthy Balfour High Col, where skiers can climb Mt. Balfour to 10,725 feet. From the col, cruise on gentles slopes over the Waputik Glacier to one-room, unheated Scott-Duncan Hut at 8,900 feet, Wapta's smallest hut. Without side trips, this leg takes about six hours.

Step 5

The last day is a return to civilization at the Trans Canada Highway near Kicking Horse Pass, and features a significant downhill section and some flat skiing through trees by Sherbrooke Lake. Shuttle buses leave on regular schedules to Canmore.

Tips & Warnings

If possible, make your schedule sufficiently flexible to wait out bad weather. Do not ski alone.

If possible, make your schedule sufficiently flexible to wait out bad weather.

Do not ski alone.

There is some crevasse and avalanche danger. Unless you are very experienced, try one of the many guide services available.

Resources

The Wapta Traverse

Article Written By Barry Truman

Barry Truman has published many outdoor activity articles in the past five years with International Real Travel Adventures, the Everett Herald and Seattle Post Intelligencer newspapers, Backpacking Light Magazine and Trails.com. He has a forestry degree from the University of Washington.

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