What To Look For
Sea kayaks must balance the ability to cover long distances quickly and the ability to handle rough water and tricky shoreline conditions. Generally, a longer kayak will be faster and a short kayak will be more maneuverable. A wider kayak will have more initial stability and a narrower kayak less. Hull shapes have an impact on this generality.
Sea kayaks' designs incorporate several hull shapes. The most popular are round, D-shaped, soft chined, or hard chined. Round and D-shaped designs are typically faster than soft chined or hard chined. Soft chined and hard chined often are more stable.
There are two types of stability. Primary stability is how the kayak feels when resting flat in the water. A flatter bottom provides more primary stability in calm water, but in heavy seas, it won't roll with the waves and may feel less stable. Secondary stability is how the kayak feels when leaned. A boat with high secondary stability will feel more stable in rough water. Round hulls sacrifice both types of stability for speed and depend on a paddler's skill for stability. D-shaped and soft chine hulls attempt to balance speed and both stabilities for an all-around kayak. Hard chine boats can have good primary and secondary stability.
Many sea kayaks are used for multiday, self-contained trips. Bulkheads and hatches provide dry storage areas for camping gear and food. Most sea kayaks have two hatches, one forward and one aft. The larger the hatches, the easier the kayak is to pack, but smaller hatches tend to be more waterproof. Rubber hatches are the most watertight and easiest to seal, but to save cost, many manufacturers use a neoprene cover protected by an outer shell. A third hatch behind the cockpit, called a day hatch, makes access to often-used gear easy. Bulkheads not only keep gear dry, but they are safety features that prevent water from filling the boat after a wet exit. This makes the kayak easier to rescue.
In bad weather, a rudder or skeg can help to keep the kayak on course. Rudders are mounted above deck and dropped into the water via a line that runs to the cockpit. They are turned using foot pegs. Skegs mount inside the rear of the kayak and lower via a slider or rope near the cockpit. Rudders offer the advantage of more fine-tuning and adjustments to counteract the weather, but skegs have fewer parts and therefore break less. The foot pegs for rudders move, offering less control and less solid contact with the boat than standard foot braces.
Kayak hulls are made from plastics or composites. Plastic kayaks are cheaper and very durable, but because the material is flexible, plastic kayaks are often slower and don't perform as well as composites. Composite kayaks are stiffer, lighter and easier to repair. Advanced composites boats, like carbon fiber kayaks, are just as durable as plastics.
Common Pitfalls
Finding the perfect kayak is a challenge, because each feature gained is often traded for one lost. For example, a more maneuverable kayak is generally slower than a less maneuverable one. The key to finding a perfect kayak is to identify the features that are important and then try kayaks designed to that feature.
Where To Buy
Because there are so many different kayaks, it's best to buy one from a local retailer that offers a demo program or a demo day. Try as many kayaks as possible before buying. To save money, consider buying a kayak at a large kayak and canoe expo, like Canoecopia in the Midwest. Most big expos offer a significant discount on kayaks purchased at the show.
Cost
In 2009, a plastic sea kayak cost between $1,000 and $1,600. Composite kayaks ranged from $2,500 to $3,500. Advanced composite kayaks often topped $4,000.
Insider Tips
A used composite kayak is often a great deal. In 2009, a typical used kayak in great condition ranged from $1,500 to $2,000.
Try as many kayaks as possible in the conditions you intend on paddling before you buy.
