Image courtesy of Erika Napoletano
What To Look For
When shopping for ice climbing and other cold weather or moutaineering gear, you want to think "inside out." In other words, staying warm starts with the layers closest to your skin and your gear works its way out to your more technical pieces. The essentials for ice climbing and other cold weather mountaineering sports are as follows: base layers, soft or hard shell pants and jacket, midlayer (fleece or other insulating piece), down or synthetic jacket or parka, neck gaiter, knit beanie or helmet liner, rock climbing helmet, liner socks, socks, single or double boots, crampons, gloves, harness and ice axe(s). If that sounds like a lot of gear--it is. Staying warm and safe is essential for cold weather adventures.
Base layers are generally made of a wicking (moisture managing) polyester blend or wool fabric. They are designed to remove moisture from the skin's surface to keep you dry and warm.
Socks are generally worn doubled-up, with a synthetic liner sock made of a polyester blend worn closest to the foot to remove sweat and lessen rubbing between your boot and foot. Most alpine enthusiasts then pair the liner with a heavier weight mountaineering sock made of wool or a wool blend for added warmth.
Parkas can be either down or synthetic and are generally a matter of personal preference. Higher altitudes generally call for down because of its superior insulating capabilities. Down always compresses more than a synthetic jacket and is a consideration for those backpacking in to climbing or alpine destinations. For ice climbing, your down or synthetic jacket is generally only worn while you are belaying, as you tend to get much colder when sedentary.
Soft and hard shell jackets and pants are your outer layer and generally worn during the active part of your cold weather endeavors. They never come off and are designed to protect from moisture and provide insulation while keeping you agile. Hard shells are stiffer in construction and have no knit-like give. They are often 100% waterproof and can either be breathable or nonbreathable. You want a breathable hard shell whenever possible. Soft shells are knit-like in texture and flexible, allowing both warmth and protection. They can be waterproof or water-resistant and are always breathable.
Boots for cold weather activities are always insulated and are either single or double boots. Most ice climbers prefer single boots because of the light weight while most alpine climbers and mountaineers prefer a double boot because of the superior insulation.
Ice axes for mountaineering are used for balance, self-arrest (saving yourself if you slip in alpine conditions) and carving out platforms for tents or cutting steps along your path. Technical ice axes (commonly referred to as ice tools) are used for vertical ice climbing and used in pairs. You cannot use the two types of axes interchangeably.
Crampons are spikes that attached to the bottom of boots to provide traction while walking on or climbing frozen terrain. Crampons used for vertical ice climbing and mountaineering differ in construction significantly so make sure you purchase the proper type of crampon for your chosen activity.
Harnesses for glacier travel (mountaineering) and ice climbing differ greatly. You will generally want a minimal harness like a Black Diamond Alpine Bod or similar for mountaineering and a traditional rock climbing harness for vertical ice climbing.
As with any gear for cold weather endeavors, determine where you're going to be using the gear and common weather conditions. You can then head to your local outdoor retailer to begin trying on gear, as cold weather sports require a superior fit along with a solid layering system in order to be effective. It's not enough for cold weather gear to look good. It has to work as well.
Common Pitfalls
The most common pitfall for buying cold weather gear is failing to think of all one's gear as a system. Your choice of base layers will affect how warm your down or synthetic parka keeps you throughout the days spent out in the cold. Being constantly cold lessens your ability to enjoy cold weather sports and also places you at risk for hypothermia and frostbite.
The second most common pitfall is using gear that is ill-suited to the activity, such as using mountaineering crampons for climbing vertical ice and vice versa. Cold weather tools and axes are highly specialized and designed for specific activities. Use the proper tools for the proper pursuit,
Where To Buy
Cold weather gear: layering is important. Image courtesy of Erika Napoletano
Cold weather gear for ice climbing and mountaineering is best purchased at first from specialty brick and mortar retailers. This gives those new to alpine and cold weather endeavors the opportunity to speak with sales staff experienced with cold weather activity. It also allows the enthusiast to be properly measured and fit for key components like mountaineering ice axes, boots and crampons.
Once you are more experienced in cold weather activities and become more familiar with the gear, online retailers like Trails.com are excellent places to shop for cold weather gear.
Cost
Cold weather gear will run anything from under $10 for a pair of liner socks to hundreds of dollars for a pair of crampons or set of technical ice tools. There is always something to fit your budget, but don't rely on price alone for your decision. What feels good is as much a consideration as price for cold weather gear.
Comparison Shopping
When comparing cold weather gear, you will find that several brands make the same type of item and the price will vary greatly. Brand names carry a lot of weight in the outdoor industry and it's possible that a piece of gear under the REI brand name is just as effective and comfortable as one under the Arc'teryx brand name, while the price difference is a hundred dollars or more. Find what feels good, get opinions from experienced users, and if even possible, rent gear before you buy it. It's a small price to pay to make sure your purchases don't end up on eBay when you find out they don't work for you.
Insider Tips
GearScan.com is a website that scans hot gear deals from six separate sites. You can generally score great bargains on cold weather gear from GearScan. GearExpress.com is also an excellent resource for discounted cold weather climbing and mountaineering gear.
